Welcome Home!
Giving a dog a second chance and welcoming them into your home is one of the most rewarding and generous things you can do. Your new dog will be confused about where they are and what to expect in their new home. Setting up clear structure with your family for your newdog is paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible. A little bit of hard work in the first few weeks will setup amazing years to come.
Before You Bring Your Dog Home:
Expect your dog to be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from shelter or foster home to your house).
We recommend that you continue crate training your dog for the first 1-2 weeks unless told otherwise. Be sure to have a crate set-up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home.
Dog-proof the area where your dog will spend most of his time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.
Training your dog will start the first moment you have him. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn his commands more quickly. Not sure which commands to use...refer to the How to Talk to Your Dog vocabulary list.
First Few Days:
We know moving is stressfull — and your new dog feels the same way! Give him time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing him to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming him. Pay attention to your dog- if he is tensing or panting and showing signs of stress or if people are nervous around him, put him in his crate, so he can regroup. Don't put him in the position to be making choices during the heightened stress levels of transitioning.
When you pick up your dog, find out when and how much he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to help decrease gastric distress. If your dog has an upset stomach or soft stool/diarrhea, you can give them a bland diet of chicken and rice, canned pumpkin or probiotics to ease their digestive tract. If vomiting and diarrhea continues without an appetite or water intake (witnessed) for over 24 hours, contact your vet. Since, your dog already has been tested for parasites, heartworm, Lyme, etc., your biggest concern is dehydration.
On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having him in a safe place will make the trip home easier on him and you.
Once home, take him to his toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time there so he will get used to the area and relieve himself. Even if your dog does relieve himself during this time, be prepared your dog will have accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds can throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. Again, keep in mind that he may have diarrhea or an upset stomach; he may even have some blood in his stool. Take a deep breath…this is NORMAL, while your dog is transitioning.
The primary caretaker should keep your dog nearby at all times during the first 1-2 weeks. You can do this by leaving a leash on and taking him wherever you go, from room to room. When you can't take him, he should be crated. Taking a nap? Crate. Taking a shower? Crate. Getting the mail? Crate. This helps you learn his cues for needing the bathroom, while at the same time teaching your expectations. If your watching tv and your dog gets up to walk away, he is likely going to use the bathroom, and you’ll only catch it if you’re holding his leash. Don't expect every family member to be as attentive, so invest this time the first 1-2 weeks and be patient while he's learning his new schedule-- it will pay off!
While your dog is spending time with you, leave his crate open so he can retreat to it on his own if he wants. He may go there to nap or if he feels overstimulated. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort him if he whines when left alone- know that “you get what you pet”. Instead, give him attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly.
For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much stimulation/excitement. Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, it will give you more one-on-one time to get to know him and his likes/dislikes.
If he came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs and sticks are just some of the pieces of “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect. Or maybe he led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.
Following Weeks:
People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog may be a bit uneasy at first as he gets to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of him as well as what he can expect from you.
After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes. A simple foundation 1 class will build your confidence and build trust and bonding with your dog.
If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive-reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles.
To have a long and happy life together with your dog be sure to follow a routine; like kids dogs respond best when they know what to expect. Ensure your dog always has the food, potty time, exercise and attention he needs. You’ll be bonded in no time!
How to Talk to Your Dog
What we say to our dogs is important. How we say it is crucial. Different tones of voice are used to distinguish between commands, corrections, and praise. Commands are given in a firm, strong tone of voice. No chanting please. Corrections get a little lower, sharper and growlier. Praise is more exuberant and excited — pleasant, but not so exuberant as to incite him to wiggle out of control.
When teaching a command for the first time, it is important to help the dog to be successful by luring him into the position. Dogs are not born with an innate understanding of words. They learn by associating words with actions.
Be consistent! You should only ask the dog to do one thing at a time. If you ask your dog to “Sit down,” how is he to know which to do? “Sit” and “Down” are two different commands. Be specific with your commands. When you want him off the couch, don’t interchange commands like “down” and “off.” Make sure all family members are using the same commands; otherwise the confusion will delay training success.
Your dog’s mother did not repeat herself over and over again. Neither should you. Once the dog understands what the command means, it should only be said once.
Above all, keep it positive. You’re communicating and building a relationship. You work for rewards (salary, bonuses, commissions), so will your dog!
Vocabulary List
LOOK Get your dog to focus on you and make eye contact.
NO Wrong choice, the dog blew it. Should be said in a low, firm tone of voice.
OUCH Stop that mouthing, it hurts. When your dog bit down too hard on his littermates, they yelped at him and stopped playing.
SIT The most basic of all commands. Can be practiced before eating, at street corners, in elevators, whenever you need to get active control of your dog.
DOWN This means to lie down. Down is a very subordinate position so some bossy dogs may not readily comply. To be used when you want your dog to be comfortable or when you need control of a dog throwing a tantrum. Do not confuse this with “Off!”
STAND Use this when you want the dog to go from a sit or down and stand with all four feet on the ground. This is very useful at the vet’s office or at the curb on a rainy day.
STAY This means do not move from whatever position you are in. You may ask your dog to “sit stay,” “down stay,” etc.
FREE Dog is released from whatever position you asked him to assume. He is done working until the next command is given.
LET’S GO This is the command for controlled walking, what you do on a regular basis with your dog. The dog may go out to the end of his six-foot leash and sniff around and do his thing but he may not drag you down the street or trip you by crisscrossing in front of or behind you.
HEEL This is a very precise position at your left side. The dog walks along beside you. If you stop, the dog stops. Heel is a good command to use on very crowded streets or when you want your dog very close, such as when there’s broken glass in your path.
COME When your dog hears this command, he should leave whatever he is doing and come to sit in front of you. Because this can be a lifesaving command, you should always give it in the most cheerful, inviting tones. Reserve a very special treat for teaching it and never use it to call your dog to you to do something he does not like.
OFF Use this for jumping up on either people, furniture, or counter tops. Don’t confuse this command with “down.”
TAKE IT Teach your dog to take food or toys using this command. The dog should wait until you give the “take it” command before putting the offered object in his mouth.
DROP IT This means that the dog should spit out whatever is in his mouth. It is important to teach this command using a reward system or you can create an overly possessive dog.
LEAVE IT This tells your dog not to even think about picking up the object, to avert your eyes from the object, other dogs, rollerbladers, etc. Very useful on city streets.